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[77] [78] [79] Late Elizabethan corsets, with their rigid, suppressive fronts, manipulated a woman's figure into a flat, cylindrical silhouette with a deep cleavage. [80] Contemporaneous French fashion, including the Spanish-style high neckline and face-framing ruff, started to gain popularity in Italy replacing the Medici-style décolletage. [34]
Farthingale sleeves for Catherine Fenton Boyle cost 4 shillings and 4 pence in October 1604 from Robert Dobson, a London tailor. [42] In 1605, Catherine Tollemache wrote to her London tailor, Roger Jones, about farthingale sleeves covered with satin, and he suggested another style of sleeve now in fashion would be "fytter" for her new gown. [ 43 ]
Spanish fashion: Elizabeth of Valois, Queen of Spain, wears a black gown with floor-length sleeves lined in white, with the cone-shaped skirts created by the Spanish farthingale, 1565. Elizabeth I wears padded shoulder rolls and an embroidered partlet and sleeves. Her low-necked chemise is just visible above the arched bodice, 1572.
Woman's stays c. 1730–1740. Silk plain weave with supplementary weft-float patterning, stiffened with whalebone. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.63.24.5. [1]The corset is a supportive undergarment for women, dating, in Europe, back several centuries, evolving as fashion trends have changed and being known, depending on era and geography, as a pair of bodies, stays and corsets.
In 1596, Elizabeth Woode of Ramsey left a russet petticoat and a russet safeguard to her daughter. [20] Bequests made by Anne Bikarstaffe of Stockport in 1599 include a "partelytt and savegard". [21] Dame Honor Proctor of Cowling Hall near Bedale made a bequest of her "ryding savegard and cloak, hoodd and mittons" in 1625. [22]
Arnold, Janet: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6; Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9) Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams, 1996.
Arnold, Janet: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6; Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9) Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams ...
[185] [186] [187] Late Elizabethan corsets, with their rigid, suppressive fronts, manipulated a woman's figure into a flat, cylindrical silhouette with a deep cleavage. [ 188 ] Around 1610, flat collars started replacing neck trims, allowing provocative cleavage that was sometimes covered with a handkerchief. [ 189 ]