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High on K2: Seracs above the Bottleneck. The Bottleneck is a location along the South-East Spur (also known as Abruzzi Spur), the most-used route to the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain in the world, in the Karakoram, on the border of Pakistan and China.
From what became the traditional base campsite they explored K2's northeast ridge, which they considered hopeless, so attempted to climb up the southeast ridge – now called the Abruzzi Ridge or Spur. Two Courmayeur guides reached about 21,000 feet (6,400 m) but this only proved the party as a whole would not manage the climb. They then went ...
K2 from the south. The Abruzzi Spur attempted by the expedition is the last spur before the right hand skyline. The highest point reached is the flattened part of the skyline at two-thirds height. The 1953 American Karakoram expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth.
This route later became known as the Abruzzi Ridge (or Abruzzi Spur) and eventually became regarded as the standard route to the summit. [ 1 ] In 1929, Aimone di Savoia-Aosta , the nephew of the Duke of the Abruzzi, led an expedition to explore the upper Baltoro Glacier, near to K2.
The south side of K2 with the Abruzzi Spur route. The standard route of ascent, used by 75% of all climbers, is the Abruzzi Spur, [110] [111] located on the Pakistani side, first attempted by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909. This is the peak's southeast ridge, rising above the Godwin-Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an ...
K2 from Godwin-Austen Glacier (photo Sella 1909 [note 1]). The 1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2 was the unsuccessful second attempt by American mountaineers to climb the then-unclimbed second-highest mountain in the world, K2, following the 1938 reconnaissance expedition.
Compagnoni (left) and Lacedelli, frostbitten on their return from the summit of K2. On 31 July 1954 Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli reached the summit of K2, 8,611 metres (28,251 ft), for the first time on the 1954 Italian expedition to K2 but for over fifty years the 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy dragged on concerning whether the official report written by the expedition ...
K2 is known for the inherent danger in climbing it, featuring a steep pyramidal relief and long sections of rock and ice, and unstable, overhanging serac. On September 6, 1978, Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt reached the summit of K2 via the Abruzzi Spur.
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