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The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...
This figure represents an average height of the highest one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually chosen somewhere in the range from 20 minutes to twelve hours), or in a specific wave or storm system. The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation ...
Close to the shore (beyond the Gat van Borssele), there's a tall salt marsh; at low tide, there are no waves there, at average tide, the wave height decreases to almost nothing at the dike, and at high tide, there's still a wave height of 1 m present. The measure of period shown in these graphs is the spectral period (T m-1,0).
Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
Wave height (from trough to crest) Wave length (from crest to crest) Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point) Wave propagation direction; Wave length is a function of period, and of water depth for depths less than approximately half the wave length, where the wave motion is affected by friction ...
In Hong Kong, "mPD" is a surveying term meaning "metres above Principal Datum" and refers to height of 0.146 m (5.7 in) above chart datum [8] and 1.304 m (4 ft 3.3 in) below the average sea level. In France, the Marégraphe in Marseilles measures continuously the sea level since 1883 and offers the longest collated data about the sea level.