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A vapor barrier on the warm side of the envelope must be combined with a venting path on the cold side of the insulation. This is because no vapor barrier is perfect, and because water may get into the structure, typically from rain. In general, the better the vapor barrier and the drier the conditions, the less venting is required. [7]
The easiest way is often to add layers of continuous rigid exterior insulation, [7] and sometimes by building new exterior walls that allow more space for insulation. A vapor barrier can be installed outside the original framing but may not be needed. An improved continuous air barrier is almost always worth adding, as older homes tend to be ...
A damp-proof course (DPC) [2] is a barrier through the structure designed to prevent moisture rising by capillary action such as through a phenomenon known as rising damp. Rising damp is the effect of water rising from the ground into property. [3] The damp proof course may be horizontal or vertical. [4]
Open-cell foam is porous, allowing water vapor and liquid water to penetrate the insulation. Closed-cell foam is non-porous, and not moisture-penetrable, thereby effectively forming a semi-permeable vapor barrier. (N.B., vapor barriers are usually required by the Building Codes, regardless of the type of insulation used.
In order to achieve these objectives, all building enclosure systems must include a solid structure, a drainage plane, an air barrier, a thermal barrier, and may include a vapor barrier. Moisture control (e.g. damp proofing) is essential in all climates, but cold climates and hot-humid climates are especially demanding. [8]
Housewrap functions as a weather-resistant barrier, preventing rain or other forms of moisture from getting into the wall assembly while allowing water vapor to pass to the exterior. If moisture from either direction is allowed to build up within stud or cavity walls, mold and rot can set in and fiberglass or cellulose insulation will lose its ...
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