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With the support of two mountain guides, Christian Almer and Peter Bohren, he reached the summit of the Eiger via the west flank. [3] After the ascent, Charles Barrington returned to Ireland and never visited the Alps again. [2] He owned and trained a famous racehorse, "Sir Robert Peel", that won the first Irish Grand National in 1870. [2]
The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. For example, this list contains the first ascent of the summit of the Eiger in 1858, but not the more famous first ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1938.
This was the first Alpine Style ascent of the North Face in winter - completing the climb from bottom to top in one push. It was also the first time the face had been climbed in winter without recourse to fixed ropes. 1977: First alpine-style ascent of the Eiger Direct (Harlin Route) by Alex MacIntyre (UK) and Tobin Sorenson (US). [9]
The 1959 book The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer describes the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face. The Climb Up To Hell , 1962, by Jack Olson, is an account of the ill-fated 1957 attempted climb of the north face by an Italian four-person team and the dramatic rescue of the sole survivor mounted by an international all-volunteer ...
The White Spider (1959; with chapters added in 1964; original title: Die Weisse Spinne) is a non-fiction book by Heinrich Harrer that describes the first successful ascent of the infamous north face (Nordwand) of the Eiger, a mountain in the Berner Oberland of the Swiss Alps, with sections devoted to the history of mountaineering in the area.
The first solo ascent is also commonly noted, although the first free solo ascent is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing. With the rise in female participation in climbing, the first female free ascent (or FFFA ) has also become notable.
Harlin graduated from Sequoia High School and Stanford University. [citation needed]Having established himself as a leading alpine climber with the first American ascent in 1962 of the 1938 Heckmair Route on the north face of the Eiger, and the first ascent of the American Direct route on Les Dru, he conceived of climbing the Eiger by a direttissima (Italian for "most direct") route.
Heckmair-Route on Eiger. The most experienced mountaineer in a group consisting of himself, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money.