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The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight , it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes.
In climbing and mountaineering, a fixed-rope (or fixed-line) is the practice of installing networks of in-situ anchored static climbing ropes on climbing routes to assist any following climbers (and porters) to ascend more rapidly—and with less effort—by using mechanical aid devices called ascenders.
Some climbers will use a single full-thickness climbing rope with a diameter of approximately 9 to 11 mm (0.35 to 0.43 in), and some will use double ropes, or "half-ropes", to reduce rope drag (e.g. one rope is clipped into any given anchor or protection point), which have a reduced thickness of approximately 8 to 9 mm (0.31 to 0.35 in) to ...
A pair of left and right handed ascenders (the left rigged to a rope) An ascender is a device (usually mechanical) used for directly ascending, or for facilitating protection, with a fixed rope when climbing on steep mountain terrain. A form introduced in the 1950s became so popular it began the term "Jumar" for the device, and the verb "to ...
Also, feeding a rope through an ascender requires that you hold the cam open. If the leader were to fall when the cam was held open … you get the idea. Beyond any safety issues, most ascenders ...
A load-sharing (or load-distributing) anchor is a system consisting of two or more individual anchors which join together at a main anchor point to form an anchoring system. This configuration is a way to introduce redundancy and increase strength, typically for a belay anchor.
Early versions of the cam systems used a Gibbs-style type 1 ascender placed in an inverted position attached to a soloer's sit harness opposite to the manufacturer's intended use. The combination of a climber's body position in a fall and friction between the ascender frame and the rope provides the activating leverage for the cam to grab the rope.
Diagram 3 shows three rope parts supporting the load W, which means the tension in the rope is W/3. Thus, the mechanical advantage is three-to-one. Thus, the mechanical advantage is three-to-one. By adding a pulley to the fixed block of a gun tackle the direction of the pulling force is reversed though the mechanical advantage remains the same ...
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