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If you have more than two screws on a switch it's probably a 3 way. The other option would be a 120v/240v switch or something like that for a motor load possibly. If you have a black screw where the red wire is tied to on each switch, it's a 3 way. Yours are probably both 3 ways. They would not operate if they weren't.
So, in the right hand box, you could replace the 3-way switch with a duplex switch that has a 3-way and a single pole switch. Rewire the 3-way the same. Then use the extra single pole switch for the new light with power and neutral from the other cable. Or, you can run som new cable from the light or the right hand box.
Com middle - red Wire that is 1 switch , the 2nd Switch has L1 - Blue Wire with a red band, com middle - yelo wire with a red band and L2 has a red wire. the single switch at the other end of the kitchen only operates the light at that end, the wires that go in the back of this switch 2 x red in L2 1 x Black and 1 x blue both with red bands in ...
One 3 way switch receives the power for the system of switches. The second 3 way switch is the last switch in the series of switches, this 3 way switch sends the power to the light or lights. If the single pole switch is installed next to the 3 way switch that receives the power from the electrical panel/circuit breaker, then installation of ...
I have a 3 way switch that was wired incorrectly when the switches were replaced with a different color switch. Is there a methodical way for me to identify which wires represent which piece of the system so I can correct the bad wiring? Currently if switch 1 is on, switch 2 can turn light on or off. If switch 1 is off, then switch 2 does nothing.
There is always power despite switch position at the red and black wire. The other 3-way switch, we will call it #2, also has a fan switch located with it in that box. Multiple cables coming in and out. The 3-way switch has same configuration with a black wire in the common (darker) screw and white and red in same locations.
I just re-wired a single pole light switch to a 3 way (using 14-3 wires) - following the diagram as laid out here but when I have the lone switch in the down position and move the one that is being fed from the box it immediately trips the breaker. I have triple checked all wires match the aforementioned diagram.
Any of the 4-way switches can break the circuit to the lighting. So, if you opened up the boxes and locate a 3-way switch and then turned any of the interior four-way switches off, you should be able to test the inputs on the 3-way. If there is still power on that 3-way, you have located to Line-in power. If not, locate the other 3-way and test it.
Remove that single cable from both boxes and abandon the wires, capped and taped, folded back inside the wall. Remove the 3-way switch and box. Patch the drywall. Now the box with the 4-way switch has only one wire coming into it. Remove the 4-way and put in the 3-way smart switch.
If the other switch is turning on/off the light, regardless of which position this switch is in, then it is very likely this is a defective switch. However, if it is only happening when this switch is in one particular position, then it's highly likely one of the two switches has the common wire connected to one of the traveller terminals.