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  2. Beach cusps - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beach_cusps

    In the adjacent diagram, the two waves cancel each other out, creating a flat surface. However, this is a highly simplified version of events. The incoming wave has the same wave period as the edge wave, so the incoming wave changes from a peak to a trough over the same period as it takes the standing wave to change so they keep the same pattern.

  3. Heavy surf causes coastal chaos across SLO County. See the ...

    www.aol.com/news/heavy-surf-causes-coastal-chaos...

    Waves crash against the cliffs in Shell Beach in a view from Shoreline Drive on Dec. 28, 2023. Storm driven high swells on the ocean combined with seasonal high tides combined to cause coastal ...

  4. High waves sweep beachgoers into the ocean in Oahu ... - AOL

    www.aol.com/news/high-waves-sweep-beachgoers...

    A huge wave came in, rolled him and pulled him into the ocean,” she wrote. Two other people swept into the tide were Oklahoma City native Susie Jett, 72, and her daughter, Laura Rich, 41.

  5. Surf zone - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_zone

    The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.

  6. Wind wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave

    A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.

  7. Surf break - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_break

    A type of open ocean surf break, these occur where sand build ups occur well offshore to produce breaking waves in the open ocean, which are sometimes called 'Outer Banks', which are similar to open ocean reefs except that they are generally made of sand, and may disappear or change with storms. The 'Outer Banks' in North Carolina is an example.

  8. How to turn ocean waves into renewable energy - AOL

    www.aol.com/turn-ocean-waves-renewable-energy...

    The power of the ocean could soon be used to power homes in the U.S. as scientists prepare to test an untapped form of renewable energy. The U.S. Department of Energy has invested $112.5 million ...

  9. Coastal engineering - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coastal_engineering

    The occurrence of wave phenomena – like sea waves, swell, tides and tsunamis – require engineering knowledge of their physics, as well as models: both numerical models and physical models. The practices in present-day coastal engineering are more-and-more based on models verified and validated by experimental data.

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