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Tremco is probably right in that a bead under a bottom plate wouldn't be very effective, but at the interior intersection, where we use it, it works fine. We use it in a similar way when the sheathing is the air barrier, keeping the plywood up off the slab 1/4" and running a bead along the joint.
The reason is simple: sill sealer. The light blue sill sealer installed between the bottom plate and concrete (most likely for air sealing) in the top photo is closed-cell foam. It’s meant to be an air-sealing gasket, but it also is working as a capillary break because it keeps water in the concrete from wicking up into the wood.
A slab on 3" of foam may seem to be "unambiguously not in contact with the ground" to you, but so would any slab separated by a vapour barrier, or one separated by a 1/2" layer of foam. You may find a sympathetic inspector, but that's different from meeting what appears to be a long-standing interdiction on using SPF as bottom plate on slabs.
"The way we’ve been doing that is through a “header wrap” detail where we run inexpensive, 9” wide black non-adhesive six mil poly “window wrap” between the sill seal and the bottom plate wrapping up the exterior of the sheathing and taped to the house wrap and also between the top plate and upper top plate wrapping down over the ...
Air leaking under a bottom plate during a blower door test. The following pictures are how I addressed this connection at my own home (a 1952 Cape). I used Henry Blueskin VP100 and wrapped the self-adhered membrane onto my foundation. I increase the adhesion by priming the concrete with Henry Blueskin Prep, a spray adhesive.
Hope everyone enjoys the memorial day weekend. I’m framing tomorrow in a basement and want to double check the details. I’m attaching PT 2×4 to slab for bottom plate. I […]
The wall is an exterior wall, and there is a full 2×8 (rim joist; outermost) underneath the un-notched portion of the bottom plate. The home is balloon framed, and it appears the notched joist here is used half under the bottom plate and half for the sub flooring. Both joists rest on concrete; the foundation I assume.
As long as the loads you want to help support are directly over the studs in your new wall you don't need a double top plate. How about this: Nail the top plate to the joists above. Nail a second top plate to that, and lap it at least one stud space. Fasten a bottom plate to the slab, and toe-nail the studs between the two.
I've been reading the various posts on bottom plate air sealing on this site. I'd like to avoid the expense of EPDM or Denarco sill seal. I'm wondering if laying down a healthy bead of a polyurethane caulk on top of the foundation wall prior to tipping up the walls will produce an adequate seal? In addition, the bottom plate would have the standard contractor 1/4 inch foam seal. Your thoughts ...
That will descend to the top of the stem-walls, and one easy way to terminate it is to run a bead of either acoustical sealant or Contega HF on the intersection of the concrete and sill-plate, bed the bottom of the membrane in it, and secure with staples.