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The benefits of double plates are that they carry loads to the studs if they aren't directly over them, and by lapping it ties the walls together. As long as the loads you want to help support are directly over the studs in your new wall you don't need a double top plate. How about this: Nail the top plate to the joists above.
2- structural sheathing stops 8' down from the top plate on 9' walls and 1/2" PT ply or OSB runs down to the mud sill, tying the mud sill to the studs and spans the rim joist tying the upper top plate of the first floor to the second floor studs, helping keep the plates on the floors during heavy wind loads.
2 top plates + 1 bottom plate + precut 92 5/8" studs = a typical 8 ft wall which is really 97 1/8" before drywall and flooring. That's why there are 2 top plates. They interlock where they overlap at wall intersections.
A double top plate is used anytime you have an 8 foot ceiling where 8ft precut studs were used. 3" + 92 5/8" + 1 1/2" = 97 1/8", which is the standard height of an interior wall. The 3" in that equation is the double top plate.
The double top plate's addition to the design strength of the LVL is negligible. Excuse me while I get technical for a second. Some might object to this analysis and say: hey, what you've proved is that 2x4 lumber in that orientation has a low modulus of elasticity ("is very flexible", in layman's terms).
3/4" ply (for fire stop) could be used as a top plate that spans both walls, making any double wall width relatively easy to accommodate. Or two layers of 3/4" ply to reach a typical height for installing drywall without trimming drywall for height.
Then you have to seal any seams in the top plate (if the top plate isn't continuous). Then you have to seal the ceiling drywall to the top plate-- which is tricky unless you plan ahead by installing a wide cap made of 1/2-inch plywood above your top plates. (Again, too late for that). More info here: A Practical Air-Sealing Sequence.
Framing, Flooring and Sub-Flooring - Drilling a hole through a ceiling double top plate (two 2x4s) - I am renovating the TV living room wall and want to run a lot of audio/video cables through a stud cavity up through the ceiling double top plate (two horizontal 2x4s) and into the attic.
Support the ceiling joists and don't try to raise it since movement there could damage the roof above, esp the flashing. I would cut the header first then the bottom of the top plates between the studs and then the top plate about 2' longer on both sides so you have an overlap. Then replace with studs, not another header.
This is a fairly large beam (3.5 x 9.5 LVL) and it will come down quite a bit from the ceiling. The problem is that I have low ceilings to begin with (just under 7 1/2 feet.) I have two concerns; head room and aesthetics. The head room with a double top plate, beam and trim would be about 6 feet 5 inches.