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The fabric on which Phulkari embroidery was done was hand spun khaddar (a handloomed plain-weave cotton fabric). Cotton was grown throughout Punjab plains and after a series of simple processes it was spun into yarn by the women on the charkha (spinning wheel).
Its present form and popularity goes back to 15th century, during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's reign [26] Phulkari also means headscarf, and it comes from the 19th century tradition of carrying an odhani or a head-scarf with flower patterns. Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright coloured threads ...
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The Phulkari is the traditional Punjabi embroidery used to embroider shawls and head scarfs in the Punjab region. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. [86] There is reference to Phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature of Punjab.
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Sometimes a woven pattern called the paari, is stitched along the sides of a chador, or along the bottom of a mekhela. The patterns include motifs of animals, birds, human forms, flowers, diamond, and celestial phenomenon. These indigenous patterns are woven by tribal and nontribal Weavers. The motifs are known as phul. The bright-hued diamond ...