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Front-pointing dates from the early 1930s when Grivel added two front points to their 10-point crampon of the French technique. It came to international prominence when Heinrich Harrer , in his book about the famous 1938 first ascent of the Eiger north face , said "I looked back, down our endless ladder of [French technique] steps.
Early 10-point crampons lacked forward-angled spikes and thus required step cutting on steep terrain. In the 1930s two additional forward-slanting points were added, making them exceptional for mountaineering and glacier travel and beginning a revolution in front pointing. There is currently a range of models, including specialized crampons ...
A 12-point screw drive uses two overlapped hexagon shapes, one rotated by 30°. Standard 12-point hex socket bits and wrenches fit these screws. The screw heads are typically flanged, and may fit into standard Allen hex socket cap screw counterbores molded or machined into parts to be fastened.
A A-grade Also aid climbing grade. The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See C-grade. Abalakov thread Abalakov thread Also V-thread. A type of anchor used in abseiling especially in winter and in ice climbing. ABD Also assisted braking device. A term ...
Brilliant [12] 4 ≈ 1.411 mm: Brilliant Perle: Diamant Halbpetit [8] Robijn Diamant Halve petit 4 + 1 / 4 ≈ 1.499 mm: Gem 4 + 1 / 2 ≈ 1.588 mm: Diamond 5 ≈ 1.764 mm: Pearl Parisienne Sédanoise: Perl: Parel Parisienne 八: Bā "Eight" 5 + 1 / 2 ≈ 1.940 mm: Agate Ruby [13] [14] 七: Qī "Seven" 6 ≈ 2.117 mm ...
The pica is a typographic unit of measure corresponding to approximately 1 ⁄ 6 of an inch, or from 1 ⁄ 68 to 1 ⁄ 73 of a foot. One pica is further divided into 12 points. In printing, three pica measures are used: The French pica of 12 Didot points (also called cicero) generally is: 12 × 0.376 = 4.512 mm (0.1776 in).
Heckmair-Route on Eiger. The most experienced mountaineer in a group consisting of himself, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money.
Günther Freiherr von Saar claims that Preuss learned “modern ice-craft” during the summers of 1912 and 1913 from Oscar Eckenstein, the inventor of the ten-point crampon. [ 8 ] In 1912, he witnessed the well-known British mountaineer H. O. Jones , Jones's new wife Muriel Edwards, and their guide Julius Truffer fall to their death on the ...
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