Search results
Results from the WOW.Com Content Network
For some reason Masonite has been having this problem of the plastic doorsill doming or crowning upwards. Imagine an upside 'U' The adjustment is in its lowest position and can't go down any further. If you go to my first post and open the link provided you will see the original pantent drawing for this threshold.
It depends on the door you're hanging. Masonite doors typical in residential come bevelled and full sized. A door sold as 32" is 32" wide. If you order a 32" solid core door it will come 32" with no bevel. Typically with these doors after you put a bevel on them they are no longer 32". You make the frame 32" then plane the door to fit the frame.
I'm replacing a solid pine louvred bi-fold front hall closet door with a 4-panel (2 panels on each 16" side) Masonite bi-fold hollow core door. The door is hollow in the area where the handle(s) go. I have flat panel bi-fold doors elsewhere and because they are hollow, you cannot tighten the handle screws too much or it flexes the door faces.
A co worker talked me into building him a large pantry this winter during layoff.:rolleyes: He wants it built in 2 pieces to make it easier to get into the double wide home.:wink: I found a pic of the general style, 4 doors and 2 drawers, he wants it all raised panel, soft close hardware. So far I made up a rough sketch, used
The last torsion box I made were 2 interior flat panel slab hollow core doors with the cardboard honeycomb inside. I glued both together, put trim around it and a piece of 1/4 Masonite on the top. I used it strictly as a dead flat surface for gluing up stile and rail doors to make sure there was no warping. Been going strong for years.
I plan on making some upper cabinets for the laundry room later this year. I want to use 3/4” melamine for the cabinet material. It’s cheaper than plywood and it’s already prefinished. My question has to do with both the joinery, and where the top and base panels should sit with respect to the sides. I normally use
Elite Tools from Levis Québec is closing down their store. They will be only be on internet from now on. Since the Garant brother sold it to a firm from Montreal, it did not go that well after
Doors have been made of wood for centuries. I have seen good wood doors 50 years old. I really scratch my head why an exterior door is made with MDF though as everyone knows MDF will absorb water and expand. My wood garage door has been fine for 30 years, I only repainted it 6 years ago. It is pine with plywood both sides. No delam or splitting.
Re: Wanting a non-yellowing & non-darkening finish for pine doors I've use the satin waterbased diamond varathane on cedar in my bathroom and I am really pleased with the results. it dries hard and apparently cures over a few days, if you want to see what the finished result look like just take a damp rag or sponge and wipe the pine down, it really does not impart an amber tinge like oil ...
And I have a shopping list for plumbing parts I need before I can hook it up. The plan is to take the old countertops to the landfill tomorrow, then pick up the 5th box of tiles and the plumbing parts and drop off the "sample cards" we borrowed from tile places (pieces of masonite with sample tiles in various colours glued on).