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The term cut and sew is a manufacturing process used in the making of custom garments within the fashion industry. [1] A whole piece of any type of fabric is first placed on a cutting table or run through a cutting machine. A garment piece or shape is then cut out, which is next sent for sewing through the garment assembly.
In sewing, a gusset is a triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. [1] Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional shirts and chemises made of rectangular lengths of linen to shape the garments to the body. [2] [3]
Cloth is finished by what are described as wet process to become fabric. The fabric may be dyed, printed or decorated by embroidering with coloured yarns. The three main types of fibres are natural vegetable fibres, animal protein fibres and artificial fibres. Natural vegetable fibres include cotton, linen, jute and hemp.
The air is held in the voids inside the material itself as well as in the gaps between the clothing layers. Of the natural clothing materials, fur and leather provide the best insulation. Wool, with its lanolin oil, is not very absorbent and keeps its insulation properties well when wet, unlike cotton. [6]
The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver: a large rope of fibres. [12] In a wider sense, carding can refer to these four processes: Willowing: loosening the fibres; Lapping: removing the dust to create a flat sheet or lap of cotton; Carding: combing the tangled lap into a thick rope of 1/2 inch in diameter, a sliver
Sewing for the most part was a woman's occupation, and most sewing before the 19th century was practical. Clothing was an expensive investment for most people, and women had an important role in extending the longevity of items of clothing. Sewing was used for mending.
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A Hong Kong seam or Hong Kong finish is a home sewing term [8] for a type of bound seam in which each raw edge of the seam allowance is separately encased in a fabric binding. [9] In couture sewing or tailoring, the binding is usually a bias-cut strip of lightweight lining fabric; in home sewing, commercial bias tape is often used.
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