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The KP equation was first written in 1970 by Soviet physicists Boris B. Kadomtsev (1928–1998) and Vladimir I. Petviashvili (1936–1993); it came as a natural generalization of the KdV equation (derived by Korteweg and De Vries in 1895). Whereas in the KdV equation waves are strictly one-dimensional, in the KP equation this restriction is ...
Intuitively the wave envelope is the "global profile" of the wave, which "contains" changing "local profiles inside the global profile". Each propagates at generally different speeds determined by the important function called the dispersion relation.
For an incident wave traveling from one medium (where the wave speed is c 1) to another medium (where the wave speed is c 2), one part of the wave will transmit into the second medium, while another part reflects back into the other direction and stays in the first medium. The amplitude of the transmitted wave and the reflected wave can be ...
After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.
The Boussinesq approximation for water waves takes into account the vertical structure of the horizontal and vertical flow velocity. This results in non-linear partial differential equations, called Boussinesq-type equations, which incorporate frequency dispersion (as opposite to the shallow water equations, which
Kinematic wave can be described by a simple partial differential equation with a single unknown field variable (e.g., the flow or wave height, ) in terms of the two independent variables, namely the time and the space with some parameters (coefficients) containing information about the physics and geometry of the flow. In general, the wave can ...
So in deep water, with c g = 1 / 2 c p, [11] a wave group has twice as many waves in time as it has in space. [ 12 ] The water surface elevation η(x,t) , as a function of horizontal position x and time t , for a bichromatic wave group of full modulation can be mathematically formulated as: [ 11 ]
The standard example of a longitudinal wave is a sound wave or "pressure wave" in gases, liquids, or solids, whose oscillations cause compression and expansion of the material through which the wave is propagating. Pressure waves are called "primary waves", or "P-waves" in geophysics. Water waves involve both longitudinal and transverse motions ...