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In both cases, a larger number corresponds to a larger, heavier needle. Most sewing machine needles will have packaging that gives both of these numbers in its size description — (e.g. as either 100/16 or 16/100). The length of all sewing machine needles has been standardized and does not require a separate code.
Needle size is denoted by one or more numbers on the manufacturer's packet. The general convention for sizing of needles, like that of wire gauges, is that within any given class of needle the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. [7] For example, a size 9 needle will be thicker and longer than a size 12 needle.
The Birmingham gauge ranges from 5/0 or 00000, the lowest gauge number corresponding to the largest size of 0.500 inches (12.7 mm), to 36, the highest gauge number corresponding to the smallest size of 0.004 inches (0.10 mm). The increments between gauge sizes are not linear and vary. [2]
A sewing gauge is a ruler, typically 6 inches long, used for measuring short spaces. It is typically a metal scale, marked in both inches and centimeters
The machine's gauge is expressed by the number of needles needed to achieve that gauge. B – Used for hand, mechanical, or modern Electronic Flat Machines (Stoll, Shima, Protti, etc.), where gauge is measured in 1-inch (2.5 cm) increments. The machine's gauge is again measured by the number of needles required to achieve that number.
A hook gauge is the most reliable way to determine the actual size of a tool. Even though most hooks and needles have metric sizing, tool dimensions vary slightly between different manufacturers. Non-metric sizing conventions also change over time. For instance, different sizing charts rate a 4.0mm hook as either a U.S. G/6 or an F/5. [2]
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