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A bezel set sapphire. The earliest known technique of attaching stones to jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. The stone is then inserted into the bezel, and the metal edge of the bezel pressed over the edge of the stone, holding it in place.
The pressure of the bezel over the edge keeps the stone in place. Bezel settings for diamonds are also called rub-over settings; they have a diamond completely surrounded by a precious metal band which fastens the diamond securely into place. Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar which wraps the rim of the diamond in a complete metal edging.
If the gold layer is 12 kt or higher, the minimum layer of karat gold in an item stamped gold-filled marks must equal at least 1 ⁄ 20th the total weight of the item. The most common stamps found on gold-filled jewelry are 1 ⁄ 20th 12kt GF and 1 ⁄ 20th 14kt GF. Also common is 1 ⁄ 10th 10kt. These standards are for modern gold-filled items.
The Patiala Necklace was a necklace designed and made by Cartier in 1928. [1] It was part of the largest ever single order to Cartier to date, made in 1925 by the Indian royal , the Maharaja of Patiala , for the Patiala Necklace and other jewelry worth ₹ 1,000 million (equivalent to ₹ 210 billion, US$2.5 billion or €2.4 billion in 2023).
1800–1870: The low necklines of the court gowns fashionable at this time led to the use of large necklaces set with precious jewels. [4] In Napoleon's court that ancient Greek style was fashionable, and women wore strands of pearls or gold chains with cameos and jewels.
Historically, jewel pivots were made by grinding using diamond abrasive. [1] Modern jewel pivots are often made using high-powered lasers, chemical etching , and ultrasonic milling . During World War II jewel bearings were one of the products restricted by the United States government War Production Board as critical to the war effort.
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