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In trad climbing belay stations, load-sharing anchors are often constructed from more than two individual anchors, which are rarely co-planar. In these cases, each individual anchor would feel a reduced force from the above values, but the best practice is to reduce the angle between the two outermost elements and avoid angles in excess of 120 ...
Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device.
Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, [15] such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using ...
The anchor point does not prevent a fall, but prevents the belayer from being pulled upwards during a fall. [4] This is normally not used when lead belaying. [5] To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i.e., a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by the belay loop to a rock or tree.
A double figure-eight loop, (also known as a bunny ears, or a dog eared loop) is a type of knot that forms two parallel loops, and resembles the figure-eight loop. [1]It is frequently used in climbing and caving as an easily untie-able knot that is capable of being attached to two bolts and equalised.
While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a bolt hanger (or a fixed hanger) is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a bolt runner (or a carrot) describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket ...
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