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The stone work extends up between the rafters. If I use the ridged foam this should allow me to create a space for soffit venting. I will also be using ridge vents and probably adding a Cupola with a whole house fan built in. These old growth 2×4’s with about 30 growth rings would probably blow away a new 2×6 with 5 or 6 growth rings.
One is a layer of plastic fiber mesh about 1/4" thick. This provides a path to exit for any leaks thru the metal roof, but provides little ventilation beneath the metal roofing. The better option is to install 1x4 purlins, creating a 3/4" thick air space. Purlins parallel to the eave seem called for, as the metal roof panels run perpendicular ...
Put down roof felt. Put full sheets of 2” foam on top of the sheathing and felt tacked in place. I know two layers of 1” foam would be ideal but that’s more expensive per R. Finally, lay down 1x4s parallel to the ridge at 24” spacing and screw those through the foam, felt and sheathing into the rafters.
Dana, You wrote, "Steel on its own isn't a recognized ignition barrier." I disagree. In sections R314.5.3 and R314.5.4, the IRC defines an ignition barrier as one of six permissible materials: 1 ½-inch-thick mineral fiber insulation; ¼-inch-thick wood structural panels (e.g., plywood); 3/8-inch particleboard; ¼-inch-thick hardboard; 3/8-inch-thick gypsum board; or corrosion-resistant steel ...
I use two different manufacturers who supply a range of profiles of exposed fastener and snap-lock panels. They both provide span tables for the spacing of purlins for all their products. I don't know of any metal roofing that has to be installed on sheathing, although it's my preferred substrate, and here it is required for seismic resistance.
2. Stack two layers of 2" Polyso foil-backed rigid sheets of foam, staggered and taped at the seams, secured to the rafters with 5 inch screws. 3. then a layer of Tyvek-roofing membrane or self adhering GRACE, or GAF against water penetration. 4. Then 2x2 or 2x4 straps screwed down, which will accommodate sheet-metal snaplock brackets, 5.
This is a good solution when building an open framed metal roof. Just wanted to share since many are not aware it exists. CondenStop is a fleece that is applied by the manufacturer to the underside of the metal panel. The fleece absorbs and stores condensing water vapor. The absorbed water will evaporate again to the ambient air under ...
1. In a conventional vented roof assembly — one with a ventilation channel between the underside of the roof sheathing and the top surface of the insulation — the roof sheathing can dry by giving up its moisture to ventilation air that enters at the soffit vents and leaves at the ridge vent. 2. In an unvented roof assembly with rigid foam ...
David Martin is troubled by some of the advertising claims he’s seen about metal roofing, specifically a statement from the Metal Roofing Alliance that a “cool metal roof can save 25% in energy costs compared to a dark grey asphalt shingle.”. “I’ve searched around the Internet and found a lot of the industry’s advertising,” David ...
By Scott Gibson | November 9, 2015. Starting point for a low-slope roof: Kevin Hoene's original plan for the low-slope roof on his new home in Illinois. He asks for guidance as he wrestles with details for insulation and roofing materials. If only Kevin Hoene’s choices for a new roof boiled down to a choice between an EPDM membrane and metal ...