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New techniques of resist dyeing developed. The tradition of indigo dyeing goes back centuries in West Africa. The earliest known example is a cap from the Dogon kingdom in Mali dating to the 11th century, dyed in the oniko style. [9]
Nike Okundaye was born May 23, 1951 in Ogidi, Kogi State, in North-Central Nigeria, [2] and was brought up amidst the Yoruba traditional weaving and dyeing as practised in her home town. Her parents and great grandmother were musicians and craftspeople, who specialized in the areas of cloth weaving, adire making, indigo dyeing and leather. [3]
Dyeing is the main method of colouring fabrics. From the Tuareg nomads of the Sahara to Cameroon, clothes dyed with indigo, the most common dye in West Africa, signified wealth and abundance. The Yoruba of Nigeria and the Mandinka of Mali are recognized as experts in indigo dyeing.
Indigo dye. The primary use for indigo is as a dye for cotton yarn, mainly used in the production of denim cloth suitable for blue jeans; on average, a pair of blue jeans requires 3 grams (0.11 oz) to 12 grams (0.42 oz) of dye. Smaller quantities are used in the dyeing of wool and silk.
Multidisciplinary artist and textile designer, Aboubakar Fofana, is one of the world's foremost practitioners of fermented indigo vat dyeing and mineral mud-dye techniques and is known for his work in reinvigorating Mali's nearly lost tradition of natural indigo dyeing and redefining West African indigo dyeing techniques. Based in Bamako, Mali ...
Although almost all dyeing can be done in a vat, the term vat dye is used to describe a chemical class of dyes that are applied to cellulosic fibre (i.e., cotton) using a redox reaction as described below. Because of the use of caustic soda, and the very high pH of the dye bath in the dyeing process, wool cannot be dyed using vat dyestuffs.
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Red, White, and Black Make Blue: Indigo in the Fabric of Colonial South Carolina Life (University of Georgia Press; 2013) 140 pages; scholarly study explains how the plant's popularity as a dye bound together local and transatlantic communities, slave and free, in the 18th century. Grohmann, Adolf. Färberei and Indigofabrikation in Grohmann, A ...