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The American Death Triangle, also known as the "American Triangle", [1] "Triangle Anchor" [2] or simply the "Death Triangle", is a dangerous type of rock and ice climbing anchor infamous for both magnifying load forces on fixed anchors and lack of redundancy in attachment to the anchor.
In rock climbing, an anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or temporarily. The intention of an anchor is case-specific but is usually for fall protection, primarily fall arrest and fall restraint.
Polygonal failure-> sliding of a nature rock usually takes place on polygonally-shaped surfaces; calculation is based on a certain assumptions (e.g. sliding on a polygonal surface which is composed from N parts is kinematically possible only in case of development at least (N - 1) internal shear surfaces; rock mass is divided into blocks by ...
To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i.e., a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by the belay loop to a rock or tree. The anchor arrests any upward force produced during a fall thus preventing the belayer from "taking off".
In geotechnical engineering, a tieback is a structural element installed in soil or rock to transfer applied tensile load into the ground. Typically in the form of a horizontal wire or rod, or a helical anchor, a tieback is commonly used along with other retaining systems (e.g. soldier piles , sheet piles, secant and tangent walls) to provide ...
Bolts are steel 13 mm (0.5 in) expansion bolts are pre-drilled into the rock with a hand drill and tightened with a torque wrench. Some versions use a type of glue to anchor the bolt. [2] [31] Before insertion, a bolt hanger is attached into which carabiners and quickdraws can be clipped. Modern stainless steel bolts last for over a decade but ...
K D = around 3 for natural quarry rock; K D = around 10 for artificial interlocking concrete blocks; S r = (ρ r / ρ w is the relative density of rock, i.e. (ρ r / ρ w - 1) = around 1.58 for granite in sea water; ρ r and ρ w are the densities of rock and (sea)water (-) θ is the angle of revetment with the horizontal
Anchors come in a wide variety of shapes, types, and sizes for different conditions, functions and vessels. The earliest anchors were probably rocks, and many rock anchors have been found dating from at least the Bronze Age. [14] Pre-European Māori waka (canoes) used one or more hollowed stones, tied with flax ropes, as anchors.