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The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight follow through [3] [4] and the Yosemite bowline. [5] The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall, [3] [4] and so is used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights.
There is a potential with beginners to wrongly tie the bowline. This faulty knot stems from an incorrect first step while tying the rabbit hole. If the loop is made backwards so that the working end of the rope is on the bottom, the resulting knot will be the Eskimo bowline, looking like a sideways bowline, which is also a stable knot.
The bowline on a bight is a knot which makes a pair of fixed-size loops in the middle of a rope. Its advantage is that it is reasonably easy to untie after being exposed to load. It is one of the two tie-in knots that are being taught by the German Alpine Club (DAV), generally being considered secure. [1] [2] [3]
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The knot is very similar to a round turn and two half hitches except that the first half hitch is passed under the turn. In many everyday uses, the finishing half-hitch need not be made; alternatively, one might seek surer security by tying off the end with a strangle knot to the standing part. Anchor bend step by step, with a finishing half hitch.
The result is slightly larger and more difficult to untie. It forms the first part of the surgeon's knot and both sides of a double fisherman's knot. According to The Ashley Book of Knots, "A double overhand knot tied in a cat-o'-nine-tails is termed a blood knot." [4] When weighted, it can be difficult to untie, especially when wet. [5] [6]
The artillery loop [1] is a knot with a loop on the bight for non-critical purposes. The artillery loop must have the loop loaded or it will slip and contract easily. It is an inferior knot to the alpine butterfly knot, [2] possibly dangerously so, in that it can be yanked out of shape and turn into a running knot or noose.
The Knot Bible: The Complete Guide to Knots and Their Uses, page 143. A & C Black. ISBN 9781408155875. Budworth, Geoffrey (2012). The Knot Book Hachette UK. ISBN 9780716023159. Finazzo, Scott (2016). Prepper's Guide to Knots: The 100 Most Useful Tying Techniques for Surviving any Disaster, page 117, Ulysses Press. ISBN 9781612436302.