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  2. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    The above relation between wave momentum M and wave energy density E is valid within the framework of Stokes' first definition. However, for waves perpendicular to a coast line or in closed laboratory wave channel, the second definition (S2) is more appropriate. These wave systems have zero mass flux and momentum when using the second ...

  3. Particle velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Particle_velocity

    Particle velocity (denoted v or SVL) is the velocity of a particle (real or imagined) in a medium as it transmits a wave. The SI unit of particle velocity is the metre per second (m/s). In many cases this is a longitudinal wave of pressure as with sound , but it can also be a transverse wave as with the vibration of a taut string.

  4. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves , experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation .

  5. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    The phase velocity varies with frequency. The phase velocity is the rate at which the phase of the wave propagates in space. The group velocity is the rate at which the wave envelope, i.e. the changes in amplitude, propagates. The wave envelope is the profile of the wave amplitudes; all transverse displacements are bound by the envelope profile.

  6. Dispersion relation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_relation

    Given the dispersion relation, one can calculate the frequency-dependent phase velocity and group velocity of each sinusoidal component of a wave in the medium, as a function of frequency. In addition to the geometry-dependent and material-dependent dispersion relations, the overarching Kramers–Kronig relations describe the frequency ...

  7. Rankine–Hugoniot conditions - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rankine–Hugoniot_conditions

    A schematic diagram of a shock wave situation with the density , velocity , and temperature indicated for each region.. The Rankine–Hugoniot conditions, also referred to as Rankine–Hugoniot jump conditions or Rankine–Hugoniot relations, describe the relationship between the states on both sides of a shock wave or a combustion wave (deflagration or detonation) in a one-dimensional flow in ...

  8. Matter wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matter_wave

    In the de Broglie hypothesis, the velocity of a particle equals the group velocity of the matter wave. [ 2 ] : 214 In isotropic media or a vacuum the group velocity of a wave is defined by: v g = ∂ ω ( k ) ∂ k {\displaystyle \mathbf {v_{g}} ={\frac {\partial \omega (\mathbf {k} )}{\partial \mathbf {k} }}} The relationship between the ...

  9. Acoustic wave equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustic_wave_equation

    In physics, the acoustic wave equation is a second-order partial differential equation that governs the propagation of acoustic waves through a material medium resp. a standing wavefield. The equation describes the evolution of acoustic pressure p or particle velocity u as a function of position x and time t. A simplified (scalar) form of the ...