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  2. Waterlogging (archaeology) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterlogging_(archaeology)

    Such waterlogging preserves perishable artifacts. Thus, in a site which has been waterlogged since the archaeological horizon was deposited, exceptional insight may be obtained by study of artifacts made of leather , wood , textile or similar materials. 75-90% of the archaeological remains at wetland sites are found to be organic material.

  3. Beach cusps - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beach_cusps

    The regular arrival of incoming waves in the near shore waters causes the development of waves perpendicular to the direction of the incoming waves; these are termed 'edge waves'. These edge waves become trapped near the shoreline and when two of them come together from opposite directions, a standing edge wave is formed.

  4. Clapotis - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clapotis

    Incoming wave (red) reflected at the wall produces the outgoing wave (blue), both being overlaid resulting in the clapotis (black). In hydrodynamics, a clapotis (from French for "lapping of water") is a non-breaking standing wave pattern, caused for example, by the reflection of a traveling surface wave train from a near vertical shoreline like a breakwater, seawall or steep cliff.

  5. Conservation and restoration of waterlogged wood - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_and...

    Waterlogged wood is a wooden object that has been submerged or partially submerged in water and has affected the original intended purpose or look of the object. . Waterlogged wood objects can also include wood found within moist soil from archaeological sites, underwater archaeology, maritime debris, or damaged w

  6. Undertow (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Undertow_(water_waves)

    An "undertow" is a steady, offshore-directed compensation flow, which occurs below waves near the shore. Physically, nearshore, the wave-induced mass flux between wave crest and trough is onshore directed. This mass transport is localized in the upper part of the water column, i.e. above the wave troughs.

  7. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    Some of the important wave processes are refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking, wave–current interaction, friction, wave growth due to the wind, and wave shoaling. In the absence of the other effects, wave shoaling is the change of wave height that occurs solely due to changes in mean water depth – without alterations in wave ...

  8. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.

  9. Stack (geology) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stack_(geology)

    Without the constant presence of water, stacks also form when a natural arch collapses under gravity, due to sub-aerial processes like wind erosion. Erosion causes the arch to collapse, leaving the pillar of hard rock standing away from the coast—the stack. Eventually, erosion will cause the stack to collapse, leaving a stump.