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  2. Longshore drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longshore_drift

    Longshore drift plays a large role in the evolution of a shoreline, as if there is a slight change of sediment supply, wind direction, or any other coastal influence longshore drift can change dramatically, affecting the formation and evolution of a beach system or profile. These changes do not occur due to one factor within the coastal system ...

  3. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves , experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation .

  4. Torridon Group - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torridon_Group

    Ripple-drift lamination at the top of the sandstone layers indicates deposition from easterly-flowing currents. This sequence is interpreted to be to represent the progressive infill of the topography by alluvial fans building out into ephemeral lakes. The more massive beds are interpreted to be lake turbidites. [2]

  5. Stokes wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_wave

    Description: * the solid blue line is valid for arbitrary water depth, * the dashed red line is the shallow-water limit (water depth small compared to the wavelength), and * the dash-dot green line is the asymptotic limit for deep water waves.

  6. Drift (geology) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drift_(geology)

    Drift is often subdivided into unstratified (unsorted) drift (glacial till) that forms moraines and stratified drift (glaciolacustrine and fluvioglacial sediments) that accumulates as stratified and sorted sediments in the form of outwash plains, eskers, kames, varves, and so forth. The term drift clay is a synonym for boulder clay. Both are ...

  7. Natural lines of drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_lines_of_drift

    Natural lines of drift are those paths across terrain that are the most likely to be used when going from one place to another. These paths are paths of least resistance: those that offer the greatest ease while taking into account obstacles (e.g. rivers, cliffs, dense unbroken woodland, etc.) and modes of transit (e.g. pedestrian, automobile, horses.).

  8. Undertow (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Undertow_(water_waves)

    An exact relation for the mass flux of a nonlinear periodic wave on an inviscid fluid layer was established by Levi-Civita in 1924. [9] In a frame of reference according to Stokes' first definition of wave celerity, the mass flux of the wave is related to the wave's kinetic energy density (integrated over depth and thereafter averaged over wavelength) and phase speed through:

  9. Gillnetting - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gillnetting

    A drift net consists of one or more panels of webbing fastened together. They are left free to drift with the current, usually near the surface or not far below it. Floats on the floatline and weights on the groundline keep them vertical. Drift nets drift with the current while they are connected with the operating vessel, the driftnetter or ...