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Cameos are often worn as jewelry, but in ancient times were mainly used for signet rings and large earrings, although the largest examples were probably too large for this, and were just admired as objets d'art. Stone cameos of great artistry were made in Greece dating back as far as the 5th century BC. [6]
Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794–1865) is regarded as the forefather of the family. In 1814, Fortunato opened his own workshop in Rome. The progenitor specialized in the creation of jewels emulating the ones that then came to light from the necropolis of Etruria, that were found in the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum or that could be observed in the Campana collection.
In addition to these creations, Nitot crafted the Napoleon Diamond Necklace around 1811–1812 to celebrate the birth of Napoleon II. The necklace, featuring 234 diamonds totaling approximately 263 carats, was gifted to Empress Marie-Louise and is now housed at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington , D.C. [ 6 ]
Cameos, locket brooches, flowers, nature, animal and hearts were popular jewellery styles in the early Victorian era. When Victoria's husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, jewellery fashion changed to reflect the queen in mourning. Styles turned heavier and more sombre, using materials like black enamel, jet, and black onyx.
The Romans invented cameo glass, best known from the Portland Vase, as a cheaper material for cameos, and one that allowed consistent and predictable layers on even round objects. There are several antique and medieval engraved gems on the Ottonian Cross of Lothair (10th century with a 14 century base).
Holbeinesque jewellery includes pendants, brooches and earrings in the neo-Renaissance or Renaissance Revival style, and once again became fashionable in the 1860s. The designs differ from the older stylised and pious neo-Gothic jewellery, in that they are extravagantly opulent – this richness of form and colour which had appealed to the Tudor court was rediscovered by Victorian jewellers ...
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