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  2. Longshore drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longshore_drift

    These formulas provide a different view of the processes that generate longshore drift. The most common factors taken into consideration in these formulas are: Suspended and bed load transport; Waves, e.g., breaking and non-breaking; The shear exerted by waves or the flow associated with waves. [3]

  3. Langmuir circulation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langmuir_circulation

    The clumps of floating algae are often concentrated by the strong winds and wave action associated with the Gulf Stream. In physical oceanography, Langmuir circulation consists of a series of shallow, slow, counter-rotating vortices at the ocean's surface aligned with the wind. These circulations are developed when wind blows steadily over the ...

  4. Pycnocline - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pycnocline

    Pycnocline during stable stratification of deep water layers. The pycnocline is the transitory region between a surface layer of water (warmer and less dense) and deeper layer of water (colder and more dense). Mixing occurs across the pycnocline, driven primarily by waves and shear.

  5. Ocean current - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_current

    Ocean currents are driven by the wind, by the gravitational pull of the moon in the form of tides, and by the effects of variations in water density. [4] Ocean dynamics define and describe the motion of water within the oceans.

  6. Internal tide - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_tide

    Internal tides are generated as the surface tides move stratified water up and down sloping topography, which produces a wave in the ocean interior. So internal tides are internal waves at a tidal frequency. The other major source of internal waves is the wind which produces internal waves near the inertial frequency.

  7. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  8. Huge waves damage homes, cause injuries along ... - AOL

    www.aol.com/news/treacherous-surf-pounds-socal...

    Amid a high surf and flood advisory along California's coastline, National Weather Service advises people to stay away from the water.

  9. Tropical cyclogenesis - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropical_cyclogenesis

    Depth of 26 °C isotherm on October 1, 2006. There are six main requirements for tropical cyclogenesis: sufficiently warm sea surface temperatures, atmospheric instability, high humidity in the lower to middle levels of the troposphere, enough Coriolis force to sustain a low-pressure center, a preexisting low-level focus or disturbance, and low vertical wind shear. [3]