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The origin of the word crewel is unknown but is thought to come from an ancient word describing the curl in the staple, the single hair of the wool. [5] The word crewel in the 1700s meant worsted, a wool yarn with twist, and thus crewel embroidery was not identified with particular styles of designs, but rather was embroidery with the use of this wool thread.
Jacobean embroidery refers to embroidery styles that flourished in the reign of King James I of England in first quarter of the 17th century. The term is usually used today to describe a form of crewel embroidery used for furnishing characterized by fanciful plant and animal shapes worked in a variety of stitches with two-ply wool yarn on linen .
They also published the books Traditional Embroidery and Jacobean Crewelwork "by Penelope", which were created with Lady Smith-Dorrien. [4] [5] In 1922, William Briggs died. His three sons Frank, William and Charles all worked for the family business. His daughter Alice Lilian Briggs married Sir Jocelyn Field Thorpe.
The Butler-Bowdon Cope, 1330–1350, V&A Museum no. T.36-1955.. The Anglo-Saxon embroidery style combining split stitch and couching with silk and goldwork in gold or silver-gilt thread of the Durham examples flowered from the 12th to the 14th centuries into a style known to contemporaries as Opus Anglicanum or "English work".
Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for goldwork. Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. [32]
Drawn thread embroidery is a very early form of open work embroidery, and is the basis of lace.Drawn thread work from the 12th century was known as Opus Tiratum and Punto Tirato [1] from the Arab Tiraz workshops in Palermo.
Members of the Blue and White Society initially used the patterns and stitches from these earlier works, but because these new embroideries were not meant to replicate the earlier works, the embroidery soon deviated from the original versions with new patterns and stitches, and even the use of linen, rather than wool, thread.
As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]