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The figure-eight knot or figure-of-eight knot is a type of stopper knot. It is very important in both sailing and rock climbing as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. Like the overhand knot , which will jam under strain, often requiring the rope to be cut, the figure-eight will also jam, but is usually more easily ...
A double figure-eight loop, (also known as a bunny ears, or a dog eared loop) is a type of knot that forms two parallel loops, and resembles the figure-eight loop. [1]It is frequently used in climbing and caving as an easily untie-able knot that is capable of being attached to two bolts and equalised.
A figure-of-eight loop tied using the follow-through method. A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.. In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.
Double figure-eight loop – forms two parallel loops; Double figure eight (stevedore knot) – bulky stopper knot often tied near the end of a rope that is secure-when-slack; Double fisherman's knot (grapevine knot) – joins two lengths of rope; Double loop (surgeon's loop) – for making loops at the end of lines similar to the Surgeon's ...
If tied, dressed and stressed properly it does not need "stopper" or "safety" knots. The Flemish bend, also called figure-eight bend, is often given in knot monographs but is seldom used. It is bulky and bothersome to tie, and not to be preferred to the following knot [ water knot], which is made in a similar manner. —
Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device. It is more bulky and less prone to jamming than the closely related figure-of-eight knot.
Stevedore knot before tightening. The knot is formed by following the steps to make a figure-of-eight knot, but the working end makes an additional wrap around the standing part before passing back through the initial loop in the same direction it would have for a figure-of-eight knot (which yields a more secure & stable knot than were it to be a half-wrap less (a "Fig.9")).
The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight follow through [3] [4] and the Yosemite bowline. [5] The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall, [3] [4] and so is used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights.