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Phulkari (Gurmukhi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ; Shahmukhi: پھلکاری) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab region and Gulkari of Sindh in South Asia. [1] [2] [3] Although phulkari means 'floral work', the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. [4]
The Phulkari is the traditional Punjabi embroidery used to embroider shawls and head scarfs in the Punjab region. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. [86] There is reference to Phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature of Punjab.
Famous for Phulkari are the cities of [28] Amritsar, [28] Jalandhar, [28] Ambala, [28] Ludhiana, [28] Nabha, [28] Jind, [28] Faridkot, [28] and Kapurthala. [28] Other cities include Gurgaon (Haryana), Karnal, Hissar, Rohtak and Delhi. Bagh is an offshoot of phulkari and almost always follows a geometric pattern, with green as its basic colour.
English: Photograph of a Patiala Punjabi woman (Ilahijan Tawayif) in Phulkari, ca.1900. Photo India heritage biz. Photo India heritage biz. Fig.3: A "Tawayif" (Courtesan) Named "Ilahijan" - Circa 1900
Such chowk is called the phulkari chowk. Bedi states that there are different types of chowk but the starting point is a square made with flour. However, any design can be made within the square such as circles or triangular shapes. Dots are drawn using red sindoor .
Phulkari dupattas, which originate from Punjab, display intricate floral patterns, while Bandhani dupattas (or Bandhej dupattas), originating from Gujarat and Rajasthan, feature tie-dye patterns. Dupattas can also be made from velvet or silk , or printed with modern designs; Banarasi silk dupattas, native to Varanasi , are adorned with zari ...
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The phulkari pattern is adorned onto dupattas/chunis, better known as a decorative scarf. Over time the phulkari pattern has taken onto embellishments onto suits, dresses, accessories and more. You will see women wearing phulkari during important religious and cultural folk celebrations (i.e.: Vaisakhi, Lohri) and then in wedding celebrations ...