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Prior to this, summits were reached by one to two expedition members at most, with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. [6]
The 1955 French Makalu expedition was the first to successfully climb Makalu, the Himalayan mountain 12 miles (19 km) to the southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. At 8,485 metres (27,838 ft) Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world and an eight-thousander .
In 2010, the Ukrainian expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010", led by Valentin Simonenko, set out to climb Makalu in Terzyul's memory. [8] The team summitted the mountain on May 23, without the use of oxygen or porters.
Terray's grave in Chamonix. Lionel Terray (25 July 1921 – 19 September 1965) was a French climber who made many first ascents, including on the 1955 French Makalu expedition in the Himalaya (with Jean Couzy on 15 May 1955) and Cerro Fitz Roy in the Patagonian Andes (with Guido Magnone in 1952).
At age 27, he was a member of Maurice Herzog's 1950 expedition to Annapurna. Prior to this, his usual climbing partner was Marcel Schatz, another member of the expedition. On the 1955 French Makalu expedition Couzy made the first ascent of Makalu with Lionel Terray on 15 May 1955. In the Alps, Jean Couzy was the first to ascend the following ...
Six of the fourteen summits of the Eight-Thousanders (Manaslu, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Mt. Everest and Makalu). The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains that rise more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) above sea level. They are all in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges. This is a list of mountaineers who have died on these mountains.
2 Zdeněk Hrubý (8 August 1956 – 8 August 2013) was a Czech mountaineer , economist and public administrator. Hrubý climbed eight eight-thousanders and was one of the most successful Czech mountaineers of his era.
The third object of the expedition was to acclimatise a party of climbers who would summit Makalu (27,790 feet (8,470 m)) without oxygen. There were to be three scientific camps where the bicycle ergonometer would be used: Base Camp (17,500 feet (5,300 m)), camp 3 on the neve (21,000 feet (6,400 m)) and Camp 5 (24,400 feet (7,400 m) on Makalu Col.