Search results
Results from the WOW.Com Content Network
Cope and stick construction is a frame and panel joinery technique often used in the making of doors, wainscoting, and other decorative features for cabinets, furniture, and homes. [ 1 ] [ 2 ] In cope and stick construction, the "stick" is the molded edge with a cut along the inside of the frame where it is to be joined to the panel.
Joining tubular members in metalworking is also referred to as a cope, or sometimes a "fish mouth joint" or saddle joint. [1] Most English-speaking countries outside the United States use the terms scribe and scribing. Coping is commonly used in the fitting of skirting and other mouldings in a room. It allows for clean joints between ...
Cope and stick is the most common method, as it is more efficient to manufacture. Mortise and tenon is the strongest, and is often used for large doors which will have greater stresses imposed. Bridle joints are typically used in less formal work, as the exposed endgrain is considered unattractive; while butt joints, being weak, are only used ...
A miter square or mitre square is a hand tool used in woodworking and metalworking for marking and checking angles other than 90°. Most miter squares are for marking and checking 45° angles and its supplementary angle, 135°. [1] [2] A miter is a bevelled edge – usually 45° – used, for example, for making miter joints for woodworking. [2]
A raised increase, knitting into row below (k-b, k 1 b) A lifted increase, knitting into the yarn between the stitches (inc, m1) Knit front and back (kfb) Purl front and back (, pass slipped stitch over (S1, K1, PSSO) for a left-leaning decrease. Knit two together through the back loops (K2tog tbl) for a left-leaning decrease.
Weaving in, or "inlay", is a related but different technique that is used to thread an extra yarn(s) into the fabric without knitting it. The woven yarn(s) need not be the same thickness or color as the knitted yarn, and almost always (but not necessarily) follow the horizontal rows (courses) of knitting.
A more hands-on method, there is the test swatch and the gauge swatch. Knitting a test swatch requires knitting the yarn into a small, roughly 4 in (10 cm) square textile of even stitches. [4] Comparing this with recommended needle sizes, yarn, and the knitter's own signature tension, allows for adjustments to all of these things.
When they arrive at a point where the colour changes, the knitter brings the new colour up underneath the old one (to prevent holes) and starts knitting with it. If flat knitting, at the end of the row, the piece is turned round just as with regular knitting, and the knitter returns the way they came.