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This is a how-to on bleeding the brakes by yourself. Things needed: 1. Socket wrench with 13/16 socket (or tire iron) 2. 10mm box end wrench 3. quick bleeder (or an empty bottle and 2 ft of 3/16 dia. hose) 4. Container of Dot 3 brake fluid NOTE: The brakes should be bled in the following order - Passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front ...
2) Get a clutch pedal buddy, a person that can push the clutch pedal in and hold it to the floor, and then lift the pedal off of the floor on command. 3) Jack stands and a jack so you can properly support the front of your vehicle while you bleed the system. 4) Brake fluid, and a pan of some sort to catch brake fluid as you bleed the system.
Get an oiler (this one worked pretty well for me Amazon.com: Tooluxe 9 Oz High Pressure Oiler for Lubricants: Home Improvement), fill it with brake fluid, attach a clear tube (Home Depot) to the nozzle and the other end to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, open the bleeder and start pumping the oiler. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir.
Next the cap. The cap needs to be filled in to reduce the volume of the brake fluid container. If you allow the container and cap to fill up the extra brake fluid will just run out when you remove the pressure cap.
im a mechanic and its rare we start cars to bleed brakes. With the engine off it doesnt have the vac. assist which makes it a little easier to push the air out, atleast makes it easier to feel in the pedal.
When you step on the brakes upto 700psi goes through those lines and a weak spot in the lines could allow them to bludge; resulting in less pressure making it to the piston. Very similar to tires with buldges on the sides from hard turning. I do brakes alot on many cars so maybe this might help. Hard brakes:-brake booster issue-seised pistons
All of your brakes are going to have bleeders. Otherwise you have a serious problem and need to replace the pass. rear brakes. Have someone help you bleed them. Open the bleeder and have them slowly push the pedal down. Then close the bleeder and tell them to let it back up and repeat 3-4 times on every wheel. You can't just bleed one wheel.
zcoh2gdsm Probably just had something mixed up while he was typing, you don't need to bleed the brakes. I changed out my slave cylinder in a parking lot at 10PM at night in below 30 degree weather in less then half an hour. Bleeding took about the same amount of time. My master took me probably another half hour.
What can cause brakes to go from firm pedal, then suddenly spongy for a pump, and then back to firm?I recently upgraded my 1ga (non-ABS) single piston front calipers to 2-piston 3kgt base model front calipers (reman units). I also have new 1g SS brake lines on all four wheels along with a...
Anyway, when I was out there I noticed the slave makes a bubbling sound as it goes in and until it makes the sound it does not want to start to move. Whats odd is I thought I might not have tightened the banjo bolt (the big 14mm one) by the bleeder all the way. So I went to tighten it and loosened it by mistake (I was tired and frustrated as hell).