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  2. Internal tide - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_tide

    Internal tides are generated as the surface tides move stratified water up and down sloping topography, which produces a wave in the ocean interior. So internal tides are internal waves at a tidal frequency. The other major source of internal waves is the wind which produces internal waves near the inertial frequency.

  3. Sverdrup balance - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sverdrup_balance

    The driving force behind the vertical velocity is the Ekman transport, which in the Northern (Southern) hemisphere is to the right (left) of the wind stress; thus a stress field with a positive (negative) curl leads to Ekman divergence (convergence), and water must rise from beneath to replace the old Ekman layer water.

  4. Green's law - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green's_law

    Propagation of shoaling long waves, showing the variation of wavelength and wave height with decreasing water depth.. In fluid dynamics, Green's law, named for 19th-century British mathematician George Green, is a conservation law describing the evolution of non-breaking, surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water of gradually varying depth and width.

  5. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    So in deep water, with c g = ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ c p, [11] a wave group has twice as many waves in time as it has in space. [ 12 ] The water surface elevation η(x,t) , as a function of horizontal position x and time t , for a bichromatic wave group of full modulation can be mathematically formulated as: [ 11 ]

  6. Fluid dynamics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_dynamics

    A flow that is not a function of time is called steady flow. Steady-state flow refers to the condition where the fluid properties at a point in the system do not change over time. Time dependent flow is known as unsteady (also called transient [8]). Whether a particular flow is steady or unsteady, can depend on the chosen frame of reference.

  7. Physical oceanography - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_oceanography

    Because the vast majority of the world ocean's volume is deep water, the mean temperature of seawater is low; roughly 75% of the ocean's volume has a temperature from 0° – 5 °C (Pinet 1996). The same percentage falls in a salinity range between 34 and 35 ppt (3.4–3.5%) (Pinet 1996).

  8. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    Position of a point in space, not necessarily a point on the wave profile or any line of propagation d, r: m [L] Wave profile displacement Along propagation direction, distance travelled (path length) by one wave from the source point r 0 to any point in space d (for longitudinal or transverse waves) L, d, r

  9. Theory of tides - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides

    High and low tide in the Bay of Fundy. The theory of tides is the application of continuum mechanics to interpret and predict the tidal deformations of planetary and satellite bodies and their atmospheres and oceans (especially Earth's oceans) under the gravitational loading of another astronomical body or bodies (especially the Moon and Sun).