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This was the first Alpine Style ascent of the North Face in winter - completing the climb from bottom to top in one push. It was also the first time the face had been climbed in winter without recourse to fixed ropes. 1977: First alpine-style ascent of the Eiger Direct (Harlin Route) by Alex MacIntyre (UK) and Tobin Sorenson (US). [9]
The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington, who climbed the west flank on August 11, 1858. The north face, the "last problem" of the Alps, considered amongst the most challenging and dangerous ascents, was first climbed in 1938 by an Austrian-German expedition. [ 4 ]
The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. For example, this list contains the first ascent of the summit of the Eiger in 1858, but not the more famous first ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1938.
The White Spider (1959; with chapters added in 1964; original title: Die Weisse Spinne) is a non-fiction book by Heinrich Harrer that describes the first successful ascent of the infamous north face (Nordwand) of the Eiger, a mountain in the Berner Oberland of the Swiss Alps, with sections devoted to the history of mountaineering in the area.
With the support of two mountain guides, Christian Almer and Peter Bohren, he reached the summit of the Eiger via the west flank. [3] After the ascent, Charles Barrington returned to Ireland and never visited the Alps again. [2] He owned and trained a famous racehorse, "Sir Robert Peel", that won the first Irish Grand National in 1870. [2]
Eiger north face first ascent Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair (12 October 1906 – 1 February 2005) was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.
This first ascent of the Eiger North Face was described by Italian climber Reinhold Messner as "a glorious moment in the history of mountaineering and a great sensation, since several climbers had previously perished on the Face", [6] made headlines around the world, [7] and is recounted in Harrer's book The White Spider, published in 1959.
Peter Bohren. Peter Bohren (20 June 1822 – 4 July 1882) was a Swiss mountain guide from Grindelwald. [1]Peter Bohren made three first ascents in the Bernese Alps.On 11 August 1858 he jointly made the first ascent of the Eiger (3967 m above sea level), climbing via the west face with fellow guide, Christian Almer, and Charles Barrington.