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Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.
Wind-wave breaking at coastal area is a major source of the wind-wave dissipation. The wind waves lose their energy to the shore or sometimes back to the ocean when those break at the shore. (see more explains -> “Ocean surface wave breaking”) 2) dissipation by "wave–turbulence interaction" The turbulent wind flows and viscous eddies ...
The National Weather Service issues a similar high wind warning (Specific Area Message Encoding code: HWW) for high winds on land. The criteria vary from place to place; however, in most cases, the warning applies to winds of 40 miles per hour (64 km/h) to 73 miles per hour (117 km/h) for at least 1 hour; or any gusts of 58 miles per hour (93 km/h) to 114 miles per hour (183 km/h) on land.
A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.
In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.
A high surf warning has been issued for the north-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, and Maui on Saturday, effective from 6 a.m. Saturday to 6 p.m. Sunday. Surf of 18 ...
The last group includes three Beaufort numbers, 14–16. The actual alerts can be categorized into three classes: maritime wind warnings, land wind warnings, and tropical cyclone warnings. Advisory-force and gale-force winds will not trigger a separate wind advisory or warning if a Blizzard warning is already in effect.
A Hazardous Seas Warning is issued by the National Weather Service of the United States when wave heights and/or wave steepness values reach certain criteria. These criteria are defined by the local forecast office. Such tall waves can pose a serious threat to vessels that do not seek shelter. [1]