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The trouble is, everywhere I've read that a whole house humidifier should not be needed. Normal humidity, they say, should be maintained simply by normal activity (showering, cooking, etc.). If the house is dry, it's far more likely to be that I have leaks (say, around my recessed lighting), and then adding a humidifier would risk mold issues.
It does not need to be installed in the unconditioned space near the furnace. It should be in the duct that feeds all the others. Look for a powered humidifier. It will need a 120V outlet, water supply, water drain and it will need low voltage wires connecting it to the humidistat and the furnace.
When it's time for heat, activate the humidifier first, delay a bit, then activate the furnace. Run the humidifier even when there's no need for heat. Some humidifier controls, such as the Aprilaire automatic humidistat, should be able to activate the furnace blower and run the humidifier as needed independent of the need for heating.
Some prefer installing on the return side as, if it fails in a bad way, water is not dripping into the furnace / electronics leading to freezing kids / costly repairs. Evaporative units with fans rather bypass lines normally go on the warm side however some vendors allow them to be installed on the return side provided hot rather than cold ...
A dual-zone system is one heating element and/or AC coil serving two separate ductwork segments. The extra cost of a dual-zone system as opposed to a single-zone system is in the dual-zone temperature monitoring/control panels, and a system-controlled diverter that sends the air to the side of the system that needs it (or both).
Since you mentioned you have a 9GMXT furnace, it has a 24VAC dedicated humidifier terminal. The manual states: The 24 VAC HUM terminal is energized when the low pressure closes during a call for heat. [..] Connect a 24 VAC humidifier to the 24 VAC HUM terminal and C screw terminal strip on the control board thermostat strip. It's rated at 0.5 ...
24 Volt Humidifier. A 5" long brown wire in the wire harness at the low fire pressure switch provides 24 VAC humidifier control. This wire is powered any time the pressure switch is closed. To connect 24 VAC HUM, connect the 24 VAC line of the humidifier to the 5" brown wire.
The "W/G" is connected to the W terminal on the furnace (call for heat). The "Cf" is connected to "C". My understanding is that any time call for heat occurs, W is shorted to C, which is detected by my humidifier and it enables the flow of water. I would like the humidifier to run any time the fan is on, not just when there's a call for heat.
But I'm reasonably sure it uses less to run on high vs low then it uses to run on low vs OFF. I do know that my entire furnace runs safely on a 15amp breaker with the blower on high, the burner running, the humidifier running, and the water pump to empty the humidifier running. Thus, my blower can't be using that much electricity on high.
I'm installing an Aprilaire 700M Humidifier in a Bryant 340MAV Furnace. I looked up the furnace manual and it states: A quick-connect terminal (HUM) and screw terminal (COM24-v) are provided for 24-v humidifier connection. HUM terminal is energized with 24v (0.5-amp maxi-mum) when gas valve is energized.