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The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. For example, this list contains the first ascent of the summit of the Eiger in 1858, but not the more famous first ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1938 .
The first solo ascent is also commonly noted, although the first free solo ascent is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing. With the rise in female participation in climbing, the first female free ascent (or FFFA ) has also become notable.
The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington, who climbed the west flank on August 11, 1858. The north face, the "last problem" of the Alps, considered amongst the most challenging and dangerous ascents, was first climbed in 1938 by an Austrian-German expedition. [ 4 ]
Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey (14 January 1923 – 30 October 2017), known as Fred Beckey, was an American rock climber, mountaineer and book author, who in seven decades of climbing achieved hundreds of first ascents of some of the tallest peaks and most important routes throughout Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and the Pacific Northwest.
The Wilkes expedition made the first successful navigation over the Naches Pass just north of Mount Rainier, which had been seen as a potential route for overland wagon travel. [4] In 1853, Theodore Winthrop visited the Northwest and wrote about his travel experience in the region in the book The Canoe and the Saddle, published in 1863.
Mutation – Raven Tor, Peak District – 1998 – First ascent by Steve McClure, who graded it 9a (5.14d). Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is 9a+ (5.15a), or even harder. [40] Realization – Céüse – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus 9a+ (5.15a) in history. [13]
The first rope-solo climb of The Nose was made by Tom Bauman in 1969. [6] The first ascent of The Nose in one day was accomplished in 1975 by Stonemasters members John Long, Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay. The first free ascent was in 1993 by Lynn Hill, who one year later completed the first free ascent in under 24 hours.
Five miles high: the story of an attack on the second highest mountain in the world by the members of the first American Karakoram expedition. London: Robert Hale. Conefrey, Mick (2015). "Chapter 2, The Harvard Boys". The Ghosts of K2: the Epic Saga of the First Ascent. London: Oneworld. pp. 31– 65. ISBN 978-1-78074-595-4. Curran, Jim (2005).