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Then a burr of the proper size is used to cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a notch that corresponds to the angles of the stone. The burr most often used is called a "hart bur", and is angled and sized for the job of setting diamonds. The bearing is cut equally into all of the prongs and at the same height above the base.
Instead of a culet, step-cut stones have a keel running the length of the pavilion terminus. Like other fancy shaped diamonds, emerald cut diamonds can come in a variety of length to width ratios. The most popular and classic outline of emerald cut diamonds are close a value of 1.5. The Asscher cut, a square modified emerald cut, is also popular.
The diamond cut planning stage is a complex process that requires the cutter to work with unique rough stones. Very often, the location of the inclusions in a rough stone will determine the type of shape to which a diamond may be cut. For economic reasons, most diamonds are cut to retain weight instead of maximizing brilliance. [2]
A scattering of round-brilliant cut diamonds shows the many reflecting facets. The luster of a diamond is described as "adamantine", which simply means diamond-like. Reflections on a properly cut diamond's facets are undistorted, due to their flatness. The refractive index of diamond (as measured via sodium light, 589.3 nm) is 2.417.
Also known as girdle fencing or "dig marks", this is caused around the diamond's girdle as the diamond is cut or bruted. These fine lines usually resemble a strand of hair and do not present a problem. However, extensive bearding can lessen the brightness of the diamond. It is suitable that such diamonds be cut or polished again to improve luster.
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