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Place blade in preheat oven and stablize temp, soak for 15 minutes move to austenitze temp oven and plate quench after 8 minutes in furnace. Cryo quench right after plate quench, continuous cool down. With an extended cryo there will be some nano sized carbides that precipitate, slightly better wear resistance with a slight decrease in ...
The AKS heat treat is the "industrial" heat treat, not the "knife maker" heat treat. Try the one I specified above and you will be pleasantly surprised. As noted above, the steel may need normalization (heat to 1650-1700 F and air cool) followed by grain refinement (1550 F air cool, 1475 F air cool, 1450 F air cool) prior to heat treatment to ...
Heat evenly to 1475F for 10 minutes then immediately quench in fast oil (fast enough to cool the steel through the 1200F-1000F in less than .5 seconds). For simplicity sake cool to at least 150F before tempering. This should get you a full 65HRC hardness with no problem, tempering should be done without delay.
Most folks just use 1350-1400F for this step. Hold for a few minutes, cool to black, and water quench. The steel now has well distributed alloys and a fine grain size. The third heat is sub-critical, about 1250F. Hold for about 5 minutes, allow to air cool to black, and then water quench.
If you are just doing stock removal, no need to normalize. If you are forging, you should normalize. 1650F, soak for 20-30 minutes, let it air cool. There is no need to "normalize" any more than once. However, after normalizing, it is a good idea to "thermal cycle" 3-4 times prior to hardening.
Nov 22, 2017. #2. You sure can use 1500/400. I prefer 1525f, 10 minute soak total (probably closer to an 7-8 minute soak, somewhat harder to do in a forge tho), and 130f canola. P50 is technically too fast for this alloy, but certainly doable. I am pleased with how stable this steel is in oil quench...no warping issues (as of yet).
I finally finished a z-wear knife. I did this one following recommended heat treat, but went cryo as part of the quench. Three 2h tempers at 1000f. It's Rc63.5. This stuff is a bear to grind and sand. I just did a medium scotchbrite finish on the blade. I went 0.003" before sharpening and 11dps.
I know knife maker from Serbia who use 52100 steel and he make many, many tests on KNIFE /not on square piece of hardened steel/ with different HT protocol and he come to conclusion that 800 Celsius is best for 52100 of course with his normalization procedure /“thermal cycles”/ after he forge knife .He constantly get 66-67 HRC after quench ...
sXePhenomenal. Not even close to any higher quality steels because 420hc has not that good of a composition compared to others. The bos heat treat is even better on more high quality steels. I’d be willing to bet Bucks s30v is a better edge holder than ZTs Benchmades or Spydercos.
Oct 16, 2017. #1. I gave my cousin some 80CRV2 to try using to make a knife in a good steel. He is just starting out forging and seems to be picking it up quickly. He uses a coal forge i believe. I have heard a few different ways to heat treat this but i want to give him the best shot at a good heat treat. from what i hear you heat to just past ...