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Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow, and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone [1] or ivory. Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other being needle lace , derived from earlier cutwork and reticella .
Bobbinet tulle or genuine tulle is a specific type of tulle which has been made in the United Kingdom since the invention of the bobbinet machine. John Heathcoat coined the term "bobbin net", or bobbinet as it is spelled today, to distinguish this machine-made tulle from the handmade " pillow lace ", produced using a lace pillow to create ...
It was adapted to knit cotton, do ribbing and by 1800, with the introduction of dividers (divider bar) as a lace making machine. Bobbinet machines were invented in 1808 by John Heathcoat. He studied the hand movements of a Northamptonshire manual lace maker and reproduced them in the
Honiton lace is a part lace.Its ornate motifs and complex patterns are created separately, before being sewn into a net ground. [1] Common motifs include daisies, roses, shamrocks, ivy leaves, butterflies, lilies, camellias, convolvulus, poppies, briony, antwerp diamonds, trefoils, ferns, and acorns.
Freehand lace. Freehand lace is a bobbin lace that works directly on the fabric of the lace pillow without using a pricked pattern. Very few pins are needed for this technique (in most cases, only at the two edges.) [1] The very early bobbin laces were probably made freehand, as pins were scarce, coarse, and expensive.
Barmen lace machine, showing its workings A. Spindle set in top plate B. Yarn threaded up to mandrill C. Beater dome C1. Beater knives D. Mandrill (variable settings) E. Finished Lace F. Jacquard G. Pulley for drive belt H. Hand wheel K. Beater cams L. Take-up rolls M. Handle to engage drive belt
The bobbinet was best producing straight net, but the Pusher was slow and could be used to imitate handlace of any complexity though could't put in liners leaving the impression of sharpness from the lace. When in William IV reign, tatting and putting on fancies became popular, the Pusher was in great demand.
The highpoint of lacemaking was from the late 17th century through the 18th century. However, the invention of the bobbinet machine in nearby Nottingham meant that machine-made lace could be made far cheaper. The patterns of the hand-made lace changed to simpler styles to compete, and this became the modern Bedfordshire lace. Lace (AM 1966.199-4)