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  2. Nonlinear tides - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nonlinear_tides

    Nonlinear tides are generated by hydrodynamic distortions of tides.A tidal wave is said to be nonlinear when its shape deviates from a pure sinusoidal wave. In mathematical terms, the wave owes its nonlinearity due to the nonlinear advection and frictional terms in the governing equations.

  3. Wave nonlinearity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_nonlinearity

    The nonlinearity of surface gravity waves refers to their deviations from a sinusoidal shape. In the fields of physical oceanography and coastal engineering , the two categories of nonlinearity are skewness and asymmetry.

  4. List of ocean circulation models - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ocean_circulation...

    Integrated ocean modeling systems is helpful for specific regions: for example, the ESPreSSO model is used to study the Mid-Atlantic Bight region. Integrated ocean modeling systems often use data from buoys and weather stations for atmospheric forcing and boundary conditions. Two examples of integrated ocean modeling systems are:

  5. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period , T 1 . In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.

  6. Outline of oceanography - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outline_of_oceanography

    The following outline is provided as an overview of and introduction to Oceanography.. Thermohaline circulation. Oceanography (from Ancient Greek ὠκεανός (ōkeanós) 'ocean' and γραφή (graphḗ) 'writing'), also known as oceanology, sea science, ocean science, and marine science, is the scientific study of the ocean, including its physics, chemistry, biology, and geology.

  7. Marine geophysics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_geophysics

    These are now known as transform faults, one of the three classes of plate boundaries. [16] Echo sounding was used to map the deep trenches of the oceans and earthquake locations were noted to be located in and below the trenches. [17] A spreading center (ridge segment) offset by a transform fault. Both are plate boundaries.

  8. Physical oceanography - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_oceanography

    Physical oceanography is the study of physical conditions and physical processes within the ocean, especially the motions and physical properties of ocean waters. Physical oceanography is one of several sub-domains into which oceanography is divided. Others include biological, chemical and geological oceanography.

  9. Navier–Stokes equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navier–Stokes_equations

    The nonlinearity makes most problems difficult or impossible to solve and is the main contributor to the turbulence that the equations model. The nonlinearity is due to convective acceleration, which is an acceleration associated with the change in velocity over position. Hence, any convective flow, whether turbulent or not, will involve ...

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