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  2. Crest and trough - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_and_trough

    A trough is the opposite of a crest, so the minimum or lowest point of the wave. When the crests and troughs of two sine waves of equal amplitude and frequency intersect or collide, while being in phase with each other, the result is called constructive interference and the magnitudes double (above and below the line).

  3. Trough - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trough

    Trough (geology), a long depression less steep than a trench; Trough (meteorology), an elongated region of low atmospheric pressure; Trough (physics), the lowest point on a wave; Trough level (medicine), the lowest concentration of a medicine is present in the body over time; Langmuir-Blodgett trough, a laboratory instrument

  4. Wavelength - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavelength

    The wavelength of a sine wave, λ, can be measured between any two points with the same phase, such as between crests (on top), or troughs (on bottom), or corresponding zero crossings as shown. In physics and mathematics, wavelength or spatial period of a wave or periodic function is the distance over which the wave's shape repeats.

  5. Trough (meteorology) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trough_(meteorology)

    A trough is an elongated area of lower air pressure. Since pressure is closely linked to wind, there are often changes in wind direction across a trough. If a trough forms in the mid-latitudes, a temperature difference at some distance between the two sides of the trough usually exists and the trough might become a weather front at some

  6. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    In fluid dynamics and nautical terminology, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave with enough energy to "break" at its peak, reaching a critical level at which linear energy transforms into wave turbulence energy with a distinct forward curve. At this point, simple physical models that describe wave dynamics often become invalid, particularly ...

  7. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height H m0, defined in the frequency domain, is used both for measured and forecasted wave variance spectra.Most easily, it is defined in terms of the variance m 0 or standard deviation σ η of the surface elevation: [6] = =, where m 0, the zeroth-moment of the variance spectrum, is obtained by integration of the variance spectrum.

  8. Wave nonlinearity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_nonlinearity

    Generally, skewed waves have a short and high wave crest and a long and flat wave trough. [6] A skewed wave shape results in larger orbital velocities under the wave crest compared to smaller orbital velocities under the wave trough. For waves having the same velocity variance, the ones with higher skewness result in a larger net sediment ...

  9. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    Ballantine scale – Marine biology measurement scale; Boussinesq approximation (water waves) – Approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves; Mild-slope equation – Physics phenomenon and formula; Shallow water equations – Set of partial differential equations that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid