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  2. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    Using another normalization for the same frequency dispersion relation, the figure on the right shows that for a fixed wavelength λ the phase speed c p increases with increasing water depth. [1] Until, in deep water with water depth h larger than half the wavelength λ (so for h/λ > 0.5), the phase velocity c p is independent of the water ...

  3. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Water depth is classified into three regimes: [8] Visualization of deep and shallow water waves by relating wavelength to depth to bed. deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean ...

  4. Internal wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_wave

    As the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth becomes such that the wave “feels the bottom,” water at the base of the wave slows down due to friction with the sea floor. This causes the wave to become asymmetrical and the face of the wave to steepen, and finally the wave will break, propagating forward as an internal bore.

  5. Gravity wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravity_wave

    Gravity waves on an air–sea interface of the ocean are called surface gravity waves (a type of surface wave), while gravity waves that are within the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities) are called internal waves. Wind-generated waves on the water surface are examples of gravity waves, as are tsunamis, ocean tides ...

  6. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    The phase velocity c p (blue) and group velocity c g (red) as a function of water depth h for surface gravity waves of constant frequency, according to Airy wave theory. Quantities have been made dimensionless using the gravitational acceleration g and period T, with the deep-water wavelength given by L 0 = gT 2 /(2π) and the deep-water phase ...

  7. Internal tide - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_tide

    The Hawaiian Ridge produces depth-integrated energy fluxes as large as 10 kW/m. The longest wavelength waves are the fastest and thus carry most of the energy flux. Near Hawaii, the typical wavelength of the longest internal tide is about 150 km while the next longest is about 75 km. These waves are called mode 1 and mode 2, respectively.

  8. What caused the huge waves that battered California’s coast?

    www.aol.com/news/caused-huge-waves-battered...

    “Those wind-driven waves occur on top of the tides and any effect from the coastal Kelvin waves.” High surf sent waves all the way up the beach in Cayucos, flooding the playground and nearby ...

  9. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.