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Joe Fairplay. 3397 posts · Joined 2021. #6 · Apr 18, 2023. Add the minimum clearance required by R404.1.6 and R317.1 to the frost depth plus 12" or greater for frost protection according to R403.1.4 and R403.1.4.1. This will typically result in a 24" depth minimum with a 45 degree return to the slab required. 32" to 48" is common.
I am about to pour my first monolithic slab for a carport I am rebuilding and expanding. It was 12x24 and will be expanded to 24x24. My questions are regarding the perimeter where it will be "turned down" for added strength, thicker than the typical 5" slab in the "field" portion.
In the first post I see the term "monolithic slab foundation". Subsequently I see the terms "foundation and slab joint" and "foundation wall". The original poster also goes on to describe an "adjacent shallow foundation" next to the "8 foot deep one". I also learn that the porch is on a "crawl space"
One thing you have to remember is pole barn buildings are point bearing structures. So your slab has to be sufficient enough to support the bearing weight of the posts. Then it needs to be anchored for wind depending on your area. For garage sized builds we usually just use a slab with a thickened edge.
Trade Talk. Construction. Monolithic Slab foundation drain tile placement
Also if I was going to build a slab with a grade beam footing, I would just frame it with 2x4 walls under 10' or 2x6 exterior walls over. It would be a grade beam footing, not monolithic. Monolithic implies that it is poured all at once continuous.
Sounds good, 12"high curb maybee a little high, 8" above grade is a good alternative. I would pour a footing 36"depth or a 16"depth thicken edge, you can also run your rebar into footing and slab and pour it monolithic. A 4" concrete slab is good, 6 1/2 sac with 6% air, no10 wwm, and a fiber is good for a secondary reinforcement.
really can't jackhammer a monolithic pour since the slab and footing are all in one. I think that's asking for trouble later on. I'd go with option 3 too. but I'd be using a professional to come in and waterproof that wall if you are going to go through the trouble of digging it all up.
He was and is an advocate of going a little beyond the code, always says building a structure to code is doing the least amount possible. For the size of this garage using 6" vs. 4" would add 4 yards of crete to the total, not a lot but it all does add up, not to mention the extra work in excavating the 4 yards.
This isolates the outside of the stem from the slab to diminish heat loss. 4" is plenty strong, in fact much stronger than a framed floor. You don't get a whole lot of deflection in a slab. Bearing locations without stems are handled by thickening the slab, generally over an area about 18" wide, to 12" thick, with 2 @ #4 rebars in the thickened ...