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Shank buttons have a hollow protrusion on the back through which thread is sewn to attach the button. Button shanks may be a separate piece added to the back of a button, or be carved or moulded directly onto the back of the button, in which case the button is referred to by collectors as having a 'self-shank'; [1] self-shanks are a common construction for older shell and glass buttons.
If the gold layer is 12 kt or higher, the minimum layer of karat gold in an item stamped gold-filled marks must equal at least 1 ⁄ 20th the total weight of the item. The most common stamps found on gold-filled jewelry are 1 ⁄ 20th 12kt GF and 1 ⁄ 20th 14kt GF. Also common is 1 ⁄ 10th 10kt. These standards are for modern gold-filled items.
Buttons are commonly measured in lignes (also called lines and abbreviated L), with 40 lines equal to 1 inch. [33] For example, some standard sizes of buttons are 16 lignes (10.16 mm, standard buttons of men's shirts) and 32 lignes (20.32 mm, typical button on suit jackets). [34]
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