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Once the wood surface is prepared and stained, the finish is applied. It usually consists of several coats of wax, shellac, drying oil, lacquer, varnish, or paint, and each coat is typically followed by sanding. Finally, the surface may be polished or buffed using steel wool, pumice, rotten stone or other materials, depending on the shine ...
All clear or translucent varnishes, and indeed all film-polymer coatings (e.g. paint, stain, epoxy, synthetic plastic, etc.) are susceptible to this damage in varying degrees. Pigments in paints and stains protect against UV damage. UV-absorbers are added to polyurethane and other varnishes (e.g. spar varnish) to work against UV damage but are ...
Primer reduces the number of paint coats needed for good coverage and even color. A thin layer of paint may still be permeable to water. Water can permeate into the wood and cause warping, mildew, or dry rot. Primer improves the waterproofing of the finish. [4] Primers are not used as part of a wood stain treatment because they obscure the wood ...
Water-soluble until set, waterproof after. [6] laminating plywood, especially for exterior use; woodworking Urea-formaldehyde glue synthetic urea and formaldehyde: offgasses urea and formeldehyde formeldehyde is toxic, urea is an irritant thermosetting: Polysulfides: synthetic Will melt acrylic, polycarbonate, ABS and PVC plastic.
Latex paints (emulsion paints British English, not to be confused with latex rubber) are an emulsion of polymer particles dispersed in water. Macroemulsions in latex paint are inherently unstable and phase separate, so surfactants are added to lower interfacial tension and stabilize polymer particles to prevent demulsification.
The latex and acrylics are easiest to apply, good for DIY beginners. But the thicker epoxy paints will last years longer than even two or three coats of the basic acrylic or latex paint.
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