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In the Han dynasty, the ru could be unlined, lined or padded. [17] According to the Shiming, [18] a ru is a padded jacket, which is soft and warm; [19]: 56 [18] a danru (simplified Chinese: 襌(单)襦; traditional Chinese: 襌(單)襦; lit. 'unlined jacket') is described as being similar to a ru which does not have cotton wadding. [19]: 56
The down's loft in the jacket is measured with the term "fill power" which represents the number of cubic inches one ounce fills. For example, one ounce of 700 fill-power down will fill 700 cubic inches. A jacket with larger fill power will compress better and have a lighter weight relative to the jacket's volume and warmth.
There are many varieties of kote such as ubu-dzutsu, bishamon (having sode (shoulder guards) attached, shino-odatsugi, ainaka-gote, and others including aigote (in which the two sleeves are connected), kigote which is a general term for the kote extended or completed by the addition of erisuwari (padded collar), kata-ate (shoulder pads) and ...
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The basic cut the uniform followed was that of a quilted jacket and quilted trousers. The trousers had a button fly and were tied at the bottom of the legs. There were usually pockets on the hips of the trousers and a button pocket on the front of the trouser leg. Telogreika jackets buttoned up the front, and the jacket sleeves buttoned closed.
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