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I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against decarb, I have some lead, some 'Low Salt' ( the low sodium salt mix that you get from the supermarket), and some low temp salt (the real stuff that you can't get easy). What would you suggest as the easiest successful method to get the surface hard?
One other suggestion. Get rid of the Goddard's goop unless spilling is a problem. That's the reason that Wayne Goddard formulated it, so he could carry it in the trunk of his car to demonstrations without spilling it all over the place. If you can't afford a commercial quenchant go with something like canola or peanut oil.
This is one of the VERY rare instances I'd suggest using a semisolid quenchant like Goddard's Goop (roughly equal parts paraffin wax and bacon grease/Crisco with a bit of ATF thrown in, mixed warm and allowed to set) in a shallow pan long enough for the blade but short enough for the handles to project over the ends.
Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives. There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will. My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly. Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui.
I've used this steel before, hardened it, file tested the edge and broken a couple blades. So I know that this stuff is supposed to do what I'm asking it to. My quenchant has been olive oil, I recently switched to "Goddards goop" at about 40 parrafin to 60 oil with about a Tbsp of dishwashing detergent thrown in for good measure.
The holes were made with a diamond shaped awl. The stitches done so that the needle entered in the middle of the flat of the cut and emerged on the inside of the leather (between leather and wood core). This is a bit like lacing you shoed inside out. It is not as tricky as it might seem at first.
Location:Johnson City, Tennessee, USA. Interests:World Domination. Posted November 3, 2023. On 11/3/2023 at 2:34 AM, Jeroen Zuiderwijk said: basically shellac in unprocessed state. Well, since I have a bag of seedlac (raw unprocessed shellac), I did a bit of research into shellac as an adhesive resin.
I had anticipated an edge quench in a roof gutter filled with a Wayne Goddard-type goop. If I need to quench vertically, I have a few questions regarding volume. Is a 3-4 inch pipe filled with motor oil, animal fat, melted candles going to work or will I need to go to a larger diameter of cylinder and a particular quenchant?
Heating 1084 to 100 degrees above nonmagnetic is what you want to do. Letting it cool in still air leaves a small grain size and evenly distributed carbon. This is normalization. Leaving it in the forge to slow cool can result in massive grain growth and severe decarburizing if it is too hot.
As for Tung oil, you will seldom, if ever, find it. What you find is “Tung oil finish” A finish that works well enough for most folks uses, but is only a tiny part Tung oil and the rest isn't Linseed oil, but modified Soybean oil. 2nd amendment is a wonderful thing, but full of loop holes for exploitation. But if you go online or in person ...