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The screw holes are spaced 1 7/8" apart (not quite the same as the delta kit), and placed above the handle hole. I noted this was the opposite vs. the delta valve, and the lower screw holes on the actual brass valve are not even threaded, only the top holes are threaded. thanks in advance, E.L.
delta 1500 I was wondering how that worked for you. I too have that shower kit. I was told mine is a monitor 1500 and since the screws are at 5 and 7 o'clock, then I would need to find the plate RP20101 in polish brass then buy the RP29406pb conversion kit.
Jimbo, I am getting ready to replace the seats, springs, ball in my old 600 delta so it won't drip. I'm an electrician, Jim, not a plumber (a little Star Trek humor), so I am a bit nervous on removing the heavily deposited valve body bonnet.
Unless there's something super-unique about that faucet - do yourself a GIANT favor. Go around behind the valve. Cut the wall. REMOVE that 70-YEAR-OLD piece of metal and install a brand new single handle DELTA builder's grade faucet. I work on a lot of 100+ year old properties.
Your valve is the "old" 1500 series with the separate temperature control handle. As far as I know there are no "replacement" kits for it. Contact Delta a 1-8--345DELT and see if they still have parts for it.
My home was built in 1994 and the shower/tub trim kit I'd like to replace is original (see pic). I thought that it was a 1500 series so I bought RP32104 cartridge from Delta and a 1700 series trim kit T17430-SS. However, when I went to take the old unit apart I noticed the trim ring screw holes...
I'm about to install my new Delta R1000 rough valve. What size wood do you guys use for the stringer? By my arithmetic, it looks like it should be about 1.5 inches from the back of the studs. Shower framing is 2x4s, 1/2" permabase, Kerdi, 1/4" thick tiles. Does my math sound right? I know the second one of these I install will be a piece of cake.
Thought I would fix the leaky shower head last night and I fixed it alright, twisted the 3 3/8 copper lines apart. Anyway, my question is should I replace the 3 3/8 copper lines in the valve assembly or just go buy the latest, greatest Delta or Moen shower valve, cut a hole in the wall behind...
Hello, I have this 24yrs old Delta 600 series shower set that has a slow leak through the spigot. I already bought the rubber and spring valve parts that should fix the leak, but I have had quite a bit of trouble trying to remove the dome that houses the valve. I have tried PB blaster...
1) the slot in the valve body is deeper than the tab thickness by enough so that the tab can be in the slot at the starting depth and then go in deeper as the bonnet forces it back. On mine the slot was only as deep as the tab thickness.
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